Skills · skill
Sand Casting
Metalwork · Intermediate
- Difficulty
- Intermediate
- Done When
- The casting fills every corner of the pattern, rings when tapped, and machines clean without pockets.
- Category
- Metalwork
- Summary
- Pouring molten metal into a cavity rammed in sand around a pattern — the way engine blocks, manhole covers and bronze bells are made.
Safety
Molten metal and any moisture — a damp tool, a wet floor — explode. Dry everything. Face shield, leather, and no synthetics. Pour over sand, not concrete.
Steps
Set the pattern on a board in the drag; dust it; ram sand in layers, firm at the edges.
Flip, add the cope, place sprue and riser pins, ram again.
Lift the cope off; remove pattern and pins; cut a gate from sprue to cavity.
Close the flask; weight it — molten metal floats a cope.
Melt, skim the dross, and pour steadily into the sprue without stopping until the riser fills.
Let it freeze; break out; cut off sprue and riser; clean up.
Tools
Two-part flask, green sand (silica, bentonite clay, water), a pattern with draft, parting dust, a crucible and furnace, tongs, sprue and riser pins.
The Science
Molten aluminium at 700 °C or bronze at 1,100 °C flows under gravity into the mould; the sand, bonded with clay or resin, is porous enough to let the air and steam out. The metal shrinks a few percent as it freezes, so a riser feeds more in, and shrinks again as it cools, so the pattern is made oversize. Bernoulli governs the pouring basin and sprue; the metal must fill the mould before it freezes.
How It Fails
Misrun: metal froze before filling — too cold or gate too small. Porosity: gas from wet sand or a turbulent pour. Sand inclusions from a soft mould. Cracks from a hot tear where the casting could not shrink.
Referenced by
element
equation
machine
Open on the Skills shelf — the interactive card, the filters, and everything alongside it.