Skills · skill
FDM 3D Printing
Making · Beginner
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Safety
- The nozzle is 200 °C and the bed 60 °C. ABS fumes need ventilation. Keep fingers clear of the moving gantry.
- Tools
- FDM printer, PLA or PETG filament, slicer software, deburring tool, isopropanol for the bed, calipers.
- Category
- Making
Done When
The first layer is uniform, the walls are smooth, dimensions match the model within a couple of tenths, and the part carries its intended load.
Steps
Level the bed: a sheet of paper drags lightly under the nozzle at every corner.
Slice at 0.2 mm layers, 3 walls, 15–20 % infill; orient the part so its loads run along layers, not across.
Print the first layer slow and watch it — it should be squished slightly flat, not round.
Keep drafts off; enclose for anything above PLA.
Let it cool before removing; a warm PLA part bends.
Remove supports and deburr.
The Science
A thermoplastic softens above its glass transition and flows through a 0.4 mm nozzle at 200–250 °C; each layer must fuse to the one below before it cools, so ambient temperature, layer height and speed are a heat-transfer problem. Layers are strong along the line and weak across it — a printed part is anisotropic. Warping is differential shrinkage as the lower layers cool while the upper ones are hot.
How It Fails
Corners lifting from the bed — warping. Stringing between features from too much heat or too little retraction. Layers that split apart under load — printed the wrong way up. Under-extrusion from a partly blocked nozzle or damp filament.
Summary
Building a part layer by layer from a thread of molten plastic laid down by a moving nozzle — the machine that made rapid prototyping a household thing.
Referenced by
element
equation
machine
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